Friday, June 27, 2008

Riding a Wave of the Cosmos



Forget wiping out, I would have had a heart attack a quarter into this video if I were on that board.

A product of a combination of the wind and the pull of our moon's gravity. Surfing is the only sport where one that comes close to interacting directly with the forces of Nature. But I don't have to explain that to any surfer. This is the appeal, I think. My friend Blais (Blaze) and his friends held surfing with reverence. He had a bumper sticker on his car that read, "There's nothing a day of surfing can't cure."

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